Bone Broths and Nourishing Soups

 I can't stress enough the blessing of freezing/canning your own stock! There are many natural broths and stocks available for anyone who doesn't have the time or the means to make their own- but I have to say, once you make your own it is impossible to go back.


Feeling a bit drained these past few weeks led me back to the kitchen for some hearty bone broth and nourishing soups. To answer a few questions: yes, my stocks are drawn from bone; yes, they take a few days to make (oh my it's worth it); and, yes, you can use beef, chicken (fish- I don't, but you can).
I cook for stock 24 hours..12 with meat (if applicable)/12 with bones and juices; this way all the nourishing goodness is pulled into the broth. Once drained, I freeze broth for future use (freezing some of the meat for emergency meals). *Note: we process our own meat, however, you can purchase bones from butchers, and farmsteads. Also, I do roast any uncooked bones to bring depth of flavor and decrease the 'scum' that can rise.


As far as vegetables..we use what's on hand..soup is flexible and our tastes can vary (not to mention garden availability). Sometimes it has tons of veggies; sometimes only a few..but in abundance. Herbs...if fresh are available, they are preferred, but since I dry my herbs for winter, I use them when I don't have fresh or I don't want to slosh through the mud to get some.

NOURISHING CHICKEN SOUP

Broth:

1 whole bird, skinned and washed (or roasted beef bones)

8 cups water (or enough to cover bird in pot)

1 tablespoon cider vinegar

1 onion

5 garlic cloves, smashed

2 chilies (fresh or dried)

Place all ingredients in a stock pot (or crock pot) and cover. Simmer 12 hours- low and slow. Remove the bird- take the meat off the bones and refrigerate until needed. Place the bones back in the stock pot and simmer 12 more hours..skimming if needed.

The longer you cook the stock, the richer and more flavorful it is. 

After 24 hours, strain through a fine mesh sieve (or cheese cloth), discarding bones/veggies. 

Either freeze the stock in quart containers or place it in a large pot and make soup.

Soup:

Broth from above (fresh or thawed)

4 onions, coarsely chopped

8 carrots, peeled and coarsely chopped

6 celery stocks, coarsely chopped

2-4 zucchinis, thick sliced

1 small head broccoli, coarsely chopped

5 garlic cloves, finely chopped

4 inch of ginger, grated

2-4 tablespoons sea salt

2-4 teaspoons crushed red pepper

small bunch basil, rosemary, sage and oregano

a large bunch of thyme

chicken meat from earlier cooking

fresh parsley (to top at serving)

In a stock pot, simmer all ingredients (except the meat and parsley) until veggies are fork tender. Stir in meat just to warm..adding parsley at serving time. 

This soup freezes well in serving portions or quarts.

   We have been eating this soup for several years now; when recovering from illness, detoxing after heavy meals (or seasonally), and after a nasty migraine. Today, well- I am simply eating to get back on track!

Questions Answered: The Issue of Wet Hay

Many of you are already aware of the severe flooding in southeast Texas where my homestead resides. While my homestead did not suffer damage, we did wash out from heavy flooding. One question that has passed my inbox quite a bit lately is the desperate issue of wet hay.


* First and foremost- wet hay can be a dangerous host for mold spores which can devastate not only the health of our livestock, but our health as well. Practices for hay also apply to feed. Now, on to the questions:


1. How can I keep my hay dry during floods? Storing hay can be challenging, especially in my area because the weather can change in an instant. Ours is in an awning type stall, up off the ground, and away from blowing rains. My advice: in a stall, trailer, or shed off the floor (pallets work well). In an emergency cover it with tarps.


2. What if my hay got wet? Open it! We use square bales which we can break open and 'air the flakes' with fans. It won't keep mold out forever, so use the wettest bales first. If you see mold or if the hay smells musty, don't risk it! I put my wet hay in the compost- if it is moldy, cover it with a tarp to prevent the spores from dispersing.


3. How do I know the hay I am buying didn't get wet? That is tricky. Knowing your supplier is the best advice. In a pinch: touch it- it should feel dry and healthy, smell it- no must or wet barn smell, and if unsure stick you hand in the bale- if it's wet leave it!


4. What's the risk? "Molds commonly found in hay include Alternaria, Aspergillus, Cladosporum, Fusarium, Mucor, Penicillium, and Rhizopus. These molds can produce spores that cause respiratory problems, especially in horses and, under some conditions, will produce mycotoxins." (University of Minnesota Extension) Horses, ruminants, and poultry are equally susceptible to the toxins moldy hay produces. So are we!


 During the terrible storms this past week, my hay storage did remain dry as did my feed; we were fortunate. I hope this helps.. for more information or for specific questions please contact your local extension office and speak with your Agriculture agent. They are there to help!!

Poultry Processing Spring 2016

   Processing time comes and goes here on the little homestead. Unpleasant as it may be, it is a necessary act we have to come to terms with. Spring butchering fills our freezer with healthy food plentiful enough to feed our family. Over the many years we have honed a setup and work through plan that has served us well making large batch processing efficient and timely.


This year brought quite a few challenges to our homestead- many of which have a profound effect on our food production. Heat was the first obstacle partnered with some shipping mishaps which left us with half the birds we normally process in a year's time. This was followed by severe flooding that left us standing in water searching for higher ground.



Challenges are good for us- even in urban farm/homesteading. Times like this force us to think outside the box, evaluate every option we hadn't thought of, and press on. The flock didn't suffer to terribly once we found a dry place for them, and the year's butchering day went off without incident.

I am task oriented, focused and rather intense about set up, process and the generally running  of it.
The week of processing I get freezers cleaned and prepped making sure there is plenty of space and plenty of ice on hand. The night before, stations are set up in order to streamline the process.


One of our young adults did return home to assist this year; it was such a blessing to have an extra set of hands! Since we are an empty nest homestead, changes to our layout were required.


In general , we used three stations: Killing is station one: knives, cones, and lined buckets are ready, waiting, and stay at this station until clean up; Break Down is station two:  cutting boards, knives, bowls of salted ice water, large lined trash cans are on hand for the main processing station; 'Cool Down' is station three: positioned near the sink are sealing bags, markers, and towels to rinse, dry, bag and label. With fewer hands on deck, we opted to combine station two and three which left my husband to man the catch and kill station and myself to process, cool down, and then package the birds. Our extra hands helped with my station until she had to leave.


 To our great surprise the whole thing went off without a hitch- or even an injury! In all, we processed about 48 birds in 4 hours despite the fact there are only 2 (three for a time) of us here to do the work (in the past there were 5-7 people on hand).

 If you have never had the privilege of processing your own poultry or if you are considering it, I encourage you to step out of your comfort zone and give it a go. Start small, maybe a few birds, and work to a goal that meets your family's needs or consider partnering with an experienced poultry family until you get a feel for it.


Sitting at the table tonight, we shared in good food and the satisfaction of hard work and the provision it brings, the security of a well stocked freezer, and the joy of knowing that he and I can manage this task- just the two of us.

In the Coup: My Poultry Keeping Overview

Our family made the decision was made to raise our backyard flock several years ago. Having both grown up with family farms, poultry came to our homestead right after the garden was set in place. Planning our flock, we had to know the purpose for the birds we would be raising and the costs involved. Every year we stop and take into consideration our previous experiences, the success and failure, and the cost and outcome. Understanding the past shapes how we choose the flock we maintain, as well as the plan for their care.

 Concerning Breed

   Egg production is always our primary purpose; meat is secondary. Knowing this, helps narrow down the many breeds available. Predators, output and experience keep our focus on 'heavy breeds' or 'dual purpose' breeds; Orphingtons and Austalorps, are my all time favorite breeds; dual purpose birds mean the hens are a laying flock while surplus roosters can fill the freezer.
   Since our children were members of 4H, the poultry project led us to raising seasonal meat flocks. Now that the children have grown, our freezer will be filled with seasonal flocks of Cornish cross instead.
   Our desire is to raise breeds that are close to natural lines or heritage lines, however, that can be a challenge and a bigger expense. When that is not reasonable due to expense or availability, we strive to stay as close as we can. Currently, we raise Buff Orphingtons, Black Australorps, Maurons, and Auracanas in our layer flock; Cornish cross are the meat flock breed.

Concerning Housing

   Our homestead came with a large shop building that has become our barn and workshop. Simple modifications turned a metal awning into stalls with an enclosed coop on the side. Here, our layer flock resides near the stalls where our herd sleep offering protection from elements and predators, while giving us easy access to feed bins housed between the stalls and the main building wall. Our hens run free during the day leading us to 'cage' our garden beds preventing destruction.
   The meat flock is housed on the opposite side of our shop/barn; kennels under an awning provide their pen and brooder space. Feed is housed near these kennels, as is open pasture. When meat flocks are not housed here, these kennels are kept clean but closed off.
   While our structures are permanent, we do have two large kennel housings that can be easily moved to maintain a quarantine set, new birds, or as transitional pens when babies are added to an existing group. Sometimes these kennels are set in garden areas that need worked by the birds when full access would be a bad idea (such as, the corn was done, but the neighboring green beans were not..pen is set over corn beds for hens to work).

Concerning Feed

   Research and experience; keys to my feed decisions. I read everything I can find on feed products and work my goals from there. My layer flock is fed a pellet/scratch/seed mixture..a supplement to their long days grazing and scratching the earth. Layers receive purchased feeds with seed and greens added in; they are not much on grazing, so grazing is often brought to them.
   All our feeds are purchased at a co-op in a neighboring county; buying in bulk helps with cost and quality. We plan monthly trips for all our homestead feed needs (our garden seeds are purchased in bulk here as well).

Concerning Health

   Herein lies a touchy subject; to medicate or not to medicate. My conviction has always been 'less is best'. Having experienced flock loss due to Merk's disease and coccidosis, I do vaccinate and treat for these two ailments. Other situations are handled as they arise. Our flock and coop are treated with diotenatious earth (DE) for parasites/mites and regular feedings of garlic/cayenne/flax along with leafy greens keeps them in good health; raw apple cider vinegar is rotated into water fountains for health and nutrients. I always try natural treatments before going to the modern pharma medications.



   Poultry flocks require time, effort, and determination and experience helps immensely. Along the way there has been success and failure; life and death; trial and triumph- homestead life is not always as romantic as we like to think. There are failures and losses to contend with. This year's floods have proven quite a challenge during chick and meat brood season!


    No matter the inconvenience or the set backs..I wouldn't trade my little peeps for anything..they are Miss K's favorite farm animal as she has just started her own pen of cucu maurons!

 

Fitness on the Homestead

Fitness? Is it important to the modern day homesteader? Why? What does it look like for those of us who spend our days covered in goat slobber and chicken poop? Is there a way to be fit as a homesteader (without adding more to our to-do list!).


First let me say- I do not like things that are impractical or expensive to do, after all, I have livestock to feed. Many fit-minded people seem set on the notion there must be money, memberships and plenty of time exerted to make fitness happen. I disagree. That lifestyle works for many, but it isn't for everyone.


By definition, fitness is the quality or state of being fit. Being fit is to be in a state of health and well-being. Please note: no where does skinny or thin play into the definitions! So what does it mean?


Being a fit homesteader, according to my philosophy and practice, means having the health and well being to fulfill the goals and tasks set about by my lifestyle. Can I handle the feed sacks and hay bales my livestock require? Do I have the energy and range of motion to clean stalls, trim hooves, and aide a sick animal? Is there stamina for the long days my lifestyle demands? These are the questions I ask myself when I consider fitness for my homesteading life. The level of fitness needed may be determined by the level of homesteader a person has chosen to be.


Let's consider my fit-ness day:
* strength- hauling feed, water, shavings, etc. this entails flexibility, range of motion, and strength- some parts of my chore routine are heavier than others
* walking- from gate to gate, pasture and stalls, there is plenty of ground to cover at a moderate or brisk pace
* running- ever herded goats or chickens?
* endurance- the days are long so my energy level needs to be fairly high


As you can see, most of my 'fit routine' come from daily activity required by my lifestyle; not to say some supplementation hurts. I often hike or walk trails, tracks, and wooded areas. Sometimes I use kettle bells to add to my strength routine. Yoga and stretching are regular for me as I desire to relieve soreness, maintain flexibility, and distress after a long day.


In the end, does it matter? I firmly believe being fit, no matter what our work, is vital. Parents and grandparents need a level of fit-ness to meet the demands of their family life (and work life). Singles, office personnel, clerks- we all need a level of fit-ness to maintain health and stamina.


Start where you are and go from there. Determine your fit-ness goals by how you feel and what your lifestyle demands.

The Lonely Little Un-Dead Tomato Plant

I was picking up plant donations to deliver to local schools when a sad little plant caught my eye. The poor thing was off by himself looking a bit pitiful. My mind ran through the list of culprits- sun scald, nitrogen deficiency, a virus- the leaves had white discoloration not yellow, so I mentioned that to the ladies helping me carry flats. They got a hearty laugh and I got a lesson.

This is a heirloom variegated tomato plant Opalka, whose leaves are broad and rather flat. Some leaves will retain their green color, while several lose pigment offering the variegated appearance. Purple hues develop at the stem tips and petioles. Fruits are smooth and round with medium flesh of average size.


Needless to say, the lonely un-dead tomato plant was offered to me as a learning experience to share with those I teach. It has been lovingly placed in the garden bed with plenty of compost and a sturdy support. Today there are several blossoms and a few new shoots branching out (which I am pinning down and propagating over for a second plant!).


For more information, please take a peek at:


http://www.genetics.org/content/genetics/27/5/550.full.pdf

From the Herd: To Buck or Not to Buck?

This spring's kidding season brought two little bucks to our farm which poses the age old question: do we wether or do we buck? Let's take a look at our general rule of thumb, the methods, and the madness.


Intact male goats (bucks or billies) are generally larger, more aggressive, and apt to buck their owners as well as other goats/animals. Aside from that, sexual maturity also brings about habits quite unpleasing- musky smell, urinating on their faces, and hollering like an insane maniac! My personal policy has always been 'none or one'- there is either one breeding male on property or no intact male at all. Male stalls and grazing areas are never entered without some form of protection (a 2'x4') especially if the male is in rut. Keeping intact males has to be a source of conviction and a test of one's grit; they don't make it easy.


Castrated male goats (wethers) must be castrated before they begin male sexual behaviours (musk and rut) which is generally 4-6 months of age. Wethers are smaller, gentler, quite passive 'pets' or stall buddies. If fixed in time, they will not develop the foul smell nor will they perform the nasty tasks that attract the ladies. I generally do not currently house wethers, however, in the past we did keep them with our does for companionship.


There are many goat farms enlist the services of a vet for castration which can be costly yet effective. This is a surgical procedure requiring shots, anesthetic, an overnight stay, and a cut which may or may not have sutchers. I have only used a vet's services once.


Then we have goat farms who take the issue into their own hands. Castrating on the farm is much cheaper, does need to include a tetanus shot, and generally is 'cut free'. Most farmers utilize one of two methods: burdizzo, or banding.

The burdizzo method utilizes a metal implement which crushes the cords and blood vessels leading to the testicles. I have never used this method, nor do I personally know anyone who has.

The elastrator method utilizes a tool which stretches a band which will be placed at the base of the scrotum in order to restrict blood flow to the testicles causing the tissue to die and the scrotum to fall off. This is the method I use since it is quick, cost effective, and overall very effective.

Both methods should be followed by a tetanus shot and need to be done around 4-6 months of age (when the testicles have descended). Knowing the timing comes with experience, so you may want to employ a seasoned farmer for assistance the first few times.


In the end, the decision to castrate or not- which method to use- are up to the person managing the herd. Breeding farms like mine may keep a buck or they may 'rent a buck' from a partnering farm. Those same farms may employ wethers to barn buddy with does who haven't kidded or who are out of season. Hobby farms or small family farms often stick to wethers and does as pets or pasture management (not really breeding or producing).

This year, our herd is under revision as we phase out of the milk goat business and into the meat goat business. Our decision to change fits our current family dynamic and offers a potential to sponsor youth needing projects. Either way, deciding the fate of a male kid's future is a must. It must be made responsibly and efficiently.


for further reading or to take the goat health study please visit:
http://extension.psu.edu/courses/meat-goat/health/castrating-male-kids

The Frustrated Gardener and Their Purple Beans

In the garden this week, beautiful Royal Burgundy Beans dangle boldly against the tender green leaves of the bean plant. Here and there they peek through the tangled mess of vine and blossom. Once plucked from their stems, the beans are striking as they patiently wait amidst the kale and onions.


Last week our office received a call from one rather upset gardener. Her vibrant burgundy beans weren't burgundy any more, but had turned green! Quite determined there was an error in the process, she insisted her beans had to stay burgundy because they were oh so pretty and much healthier than regular old green ones. Goodness, the frenzy we get ourselves in when our plants don't cooperate.


While I share her grief over the reality that burgundy beans turn green when cooked, there is no foul in her work... it's just nature doing what nature does. Any cooked veggie does suffer a bit of nutrient loss, however, the color change really is a cosmetic issue not nutritional. In her frustration she questioned why anyone at all would grow them if they simply won't stay burgundy. My answer is simple- because....


... they are a beautiful greeting when you walk into the garden.
... they are much easier to find on the plant when you are harvesting!
... they are healthy and tasty and wonderful, cooked or fresh.
... and finally, because I can.


Sometimes the items we plant are simply there because we can plant them. Aesthetically pleasing is surely a reason, right? Today I snip the tips from my burgundy beans and smile in sympathy toward the dear gardener so devastated at her reality. Yes, once the heat hits them they will fade.. but for now their beauty brightens one little part of my day.


 

Freeze, Can or Dehydrate? Oh My!

   Today I stand amazed at what a garden can endure! Five months into this year we have faced record flooding, extended cool snaps, and a few heat fluctuations. Today the sun is out which invites the pests to hatch- strange year.

   Despite nature's mood swings the garden has been a gift! Greens, hot house tomatoes, herbs, peas and snap beans have consistently been harvested. Since the household is so small, that means it's time to preserve. Let's take a peek at the top three preservation methods that I not only use at home, but also teach as well.

1. Freezing

    In the heat and humidity of our southern home freezing is my top method of choice. Produce is picked at its peak, mildly processed (if at all) and frozen quickly. Safe in the freezer, mold and pests don't stand a chance. The down side of freezing is space; with broilers and turkeys also stored in the freezer, space is precious and must be used wisely. My food freezing musts are: cole crops, greens (chard, spinach), okra, corn and squash/gourds.

2. Canning

    Second in line and next on the list is canning; water bath and pressure methods. High acid foods, jams, jellies and relishes and pickles hold well with a gentle water bath set up where as sauces, veggies, and pie fillings require the intensity of a pressure canning. Space is not quite as competitive with canned goods since they store easily in the top of a pantry, under a bed, or in any cool dark place.  Tomatoes, cucumbers, beans and carrots along with berries of all kinds are excellent canning candidates.

3. Dehydrating

    Last, but not least I have fallen in love with dehydrating. Dried goods are space friendly and easy to incorporate into everyday cooking. Some items lend well to a simple open air drying method: hot peppers, garlic, onions and herbs are a few...while some require a bit more intensity. My electric dehydrator is perfect for putting up apples, bananas, bell peppers. We love the tasty tang of kale chips and the chewy zing of a dry pineapple. Dried foods do need airtight conditions to keep well; canning jars or sealed bags work very well and store right alongside other canned goods. 

   I slosh my way through the growing garden, my thoughts look to the pop and sizzle of canning lids, colorful peppers hanging in rows along kitchen walls, and steady hum of the dehydrator working its magic. 

   Local friends be sure to keep your eye out for our canning classes! If you are like me, you can hardly wait until this season of food preservation begins.